Mutura (cow fat intestine) for brunch

Mutura is East African — a Kenyan street sausage, minced meat and offal packed into cleaned intestine and grilled over charcoal until the casing blisters. It is sold by the ring, cut into coins, and eaten hot with salt and chilli.

What it shares with Nigerian street food is the underlying principle: nothing on the animal is wasted, and the parts that need skill are the parts that end up on the grill. Nigeria has its own answers to the same question — kpomo, roundabout, the whole orisirisi tray — but the logic is identical, and so is the standard for judging it. Cleaned properly and it is superb. Cleaned carelessly and no amount of pepper will hide it.

Charcoal matters too. The smoke is doing as much work as the seasoning.